Navigating the heart of Rome is not easy, especially when you are trying to move around a zillion tourists. No joke, Rome is crowded! And its attractions even more so. Many people choose to avoid the city all together due to the cramped streets. Fred and I have been to Rome three times to visit the city and ten or more times to fly into Fiumicino Airport as a jumping off spot.

On our most recent visit to attend the Ryder Cup Golf Tournament hosted by Marco Simone Golf and Country Club, located an hour outside of Rome, we spent a week attending the tournament and rediscovering the Eternal City in the most delightful way without all of the tourist mayhem. Read and see how we did it.

TRADE THESE CROWDS…

FOR THIS HAVEN…

There is one area of Rome, just inside the North Gate and in close proximity to the city center, that gives you space to walk with arms outstretched. Meet Piazza del Popolo, a large urban square on the edge of the city with so many interesting places to stay, eat, shop and play.

STAY at Hotel Locarno or there are plenty of apartment rentals via VRBO or AIRBNB.

INSIDER GEM… you can get above the streets with a bevy of Rooftop Restaurants and Bars all around this area. And, there are gorgeous garden restaurants tucked away off the main square where you have to be in the know to go. Read on for our favs.

A MUST DO… Check out the stunningly gorgeous and very quiet Borghese Gardens where the locals find escape. Here, you’ll find gardens upon gardens, green space, yoga, walking trails, bicycles, dog walking, boating on the lagoon, quaint cafes, monuments, art, green parrots, and so much more.

Aside from being close to the Fontana Metro, the Piazza del Popolo area offers lots of sights including the Tiber River (go at night- it’s gorgeous!) the Borghese Gallery, (reservation required), Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo, Leonardo da Vinci Museum, Caravaggio paintings, the regal Prati neighborhood, Medici villas, many charming museums and basilicas, the famous SHOPPING street Via del Corso and so much more.

WHERE DO YOU EAT, YOU ASK? There are no lack of outdoor cafes, family style restaurants, coffee and gelato bars, cheese and wine shops, and entertainment. Here are our favorites:

• Rooftop Lunch, brunch or happy hour at La Rinascente’s— plus a Great place to shop!

• Lunch or a drink in the garden at Le Jardin de Russie

LUNCH OR DINNER ON THE ROOFTOP OF HOTEL LOCARNO IS A MUST!

• Lunch or dinner at Dal Bolognese

• Lunch or dinner at Il Porto de Ripetta

• Wine from Bar Nino for wine, cheese & snacks

• Gelateria dei Gracchi

• Aperol Spritz at Rossati’s on the square